Sunday, June 20, 2010

volunteer park cafe & marketplace

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Goodness knows no boundaries at this loverly cafe, nestled in the Capitol Hill neighborhood of Seattle.  The increasingly popular spot is frequented by nearby residents and far flung devotees, alike.

Owner and chef, Ericka Burke's genius is in her consummate knowledge of every facet of a successful dining establishment. Seasonal menus feature inspired comfort food with a conscience. The simple fare is never contrived, often local and organic and always delicious.  Ericka has mastered the art of deliberate imperfection.  The informal atmosphere is warm and convivial; heavy on charm, light on pretense.  Like a well worn book you read again and again.  Familiarity is the innate charm here.
 
Share a corner table with a date, bring your grandmother for a weekday lunch, gather a handful of friends for a birthday dinner or enjoy a sleepy Sunday brunch with your spouse and offspring.  However you assemble, be sure to bring your appetite.
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Resident baking maven, Heather Earnhardt, turns out irresistible scones, cookies, muffins and cakes with a deft hand. She daily transforms butter, sugar and flour into otherworldly rustic baked goods- always gorgeous but never too pretty to eat.  Not to miss are the figgy maple scones, all flaky with buttery goodness, studded with dried fig gems and smothered in a maple glaze.  The Charlie Brown cookies are another favorite- rich chewy chocolate cookies with a generous smattering of peanut butter chips throughout.

For breakfast, try the bacon and egg panini with two poached eggs, crispy bacon, melted gruyere and thick slices of tomato on brioche bread.  For lunch, the pulled pork sandwich boasts a generous helping of slow-roasted barbecued pork topped tangy purple cabbage slaw and sandwiched between a toasted sesame bun.  Come dinner, don't miss the beef brisket, a handsome portion of salty, caramelized meat so tender that it falls apart when you as much as look at it.  The brisket is served over creamy polenta with a side of braised greens.  Pizzas and salads are sure bets.  Vegetarian options abound. 
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Thoughtfully selected wines are affordable and ever-changing, often venturing off the beaten path.  In flawless succession, skilled baristas pull perfect shots of Stumptown espresso bathed in steamed milk and topped with rich, creamy foam.

Ms. Burke treats her staff with care and it shows.  With their impressive tenure, the knowledgeable amiable wait staff lend to the familial vibe of the place.  Don’t feel slighted when regulars receive extra attention.  They are regulars, after all.  Drop by more often and it's likely you'll be adopted into the fold.
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Check their website for information on special events and wine dinners.  Coming soon:  the backyard terrace all gussied up for al fresco dining, all summer long...

Sunday, June 13, 2010

best seattle coffee by neighborhood

BALLARD
Cafe Fiore- On several occasions, I noticed the back side of Cafe Fiore while perusing the Sunday Ballard Market.  When I at last made my way around the block and stepped inside, I stood in awe.  Upon entering, I was embraced by a warm glow emanating from the backlit amber menu, exposed brick and honey stained wood floors.  The rectangular layout felt spacious due to well- appointed tables and plenty of space between the counter and seating.  The vibe was both modern and rustic with vintage walnut counters contrasting burnt orange walls.  The lighting, a juxtaposition of the clean lined hurricane lamps overhanging the coffee bar and the medieval-like wrought iron fixtures throughout.  If the ambience isn’t enough to draw you in, go for the coffee.  Seattle Magazine rated them ‘Best Independent Coffee Shop’.  Their organic beans deliver an espresso with full flavor and a smooth finish.   A bonus for parents is the tots’ corner in the back.  Cafe Fiore has three locations.

CAPITAL HILL, 15TH AVENUE E.
Victrola Coffee & Art- I happened upon this coffee shop when my daughter was enrolled in a nearby dance class.  It has all the trappings of a Capital Hill coffee house: diverse patrons, pierced and tattooed baristas, a standing piano and rotating artwork on the walls.  The common thread amongst  customers is a  mutual desire for really great coffee and a disdain for the conglomerate coffee shop (disguised as an independent), down the block.  My daughter’s class was held in the late afternoon, a time of day when I tend to avoid caffeine.  I was thrilled to discover virtually no difference between their regular and decaffeinated espresso.  Their coffee is both robust and smooth, with a complex flavor.  Victrola roasts their own beans at their Pike Street roastery and brews the best I’ve had in Seattle.  It reminds me of my favorite San Francisco coffee, Blue Bottle Coffee Co.  Victrola has three locations.

NORTH CAPITAL HILL

Volunteer Park Cafe- With its high ceilings, light-filled interior, vintagey tables and cozy, bench lined walls, Volunteer Park Cafe feels like an extension of your living room.  Although more of a restaurant than a coffee shop, VPC readily support the caffeine habits of their loyal weekday coffee crowd.  Weekends are brunch focused and busy, often with lines out the door.  They serve Stumptown Coffee and baristas here know their stuff.  Cappuccinos have more milk than foam but are delicious.  The hardest part is walking out with just coffee.  While waiting in line, you pass a tantalizing array of quiches, cookies, cakes and scones.  I must stop now or this will turn into a restaurant review (coming soon…).

DOWNTOWN

DeLaurenti- Whenever I shop in the Pike Place Market, I stop for coffee at the cafe in DeLaurenti.  They serve smooth and supple Caffe Umbria coffee and their well-trained baristas are among the best in the city.  Their cappuccinos have the perfect balance of espresso, milk and foam.  Lunch fare is simple and delicious but the line often snakes out the door.  The staff is friendly and efficient and did I mention how much I love their coffee?

FREMONT
Peet’s Coffee and Tea- Although I tend to advocate local businesses, I love San Francisco enough to consider it my home away from home.  Peet’s got their start in Berkeley, in the 60’s.  The founder was from Holland, like my husband.  I first tried this coffee while visiting the Ferry Building, in San Francisco.  As far as big companies go, this one has managed to remain true to their roots and to operate like a small business.  The staff are friendly and efficient and the espresso is flavorful and consistently good.  In summer months, I love their iced cappuccino, a refreshing combination of espresso, foam, milk and ice, unique to Peet’s.  There are four Seattle locations and one in nearby Redmond.

MADISON VALLEY
Essential Baking Company- Lunch and breakfast menus are extensive at this bustling cafe but they also cater to a loyal coffee crowd.  The coffee has a burnt caramel quality, like toasted marshmallows.  The cappuccino, with its ring of golden brown espresso circling perfect white foam, even looks like a toasted marshmallow.  It makes me happy.  The Wallingford location was their bread baking facility until they recently moved the baking off-site.  It is situated in an old brick building that has operated as a bakery since the 1920’s.  There is a third cafe in Georgetown. 

MONTLAKE
Fuel- This neighborhood coffee shop has an underlying road trip theme to tie in with their moniker.  Located in the old Montlake Library, the decor is a mix of contemporary tables and chairs and original wood floors and built-ins.  The staff are generally friendly and the espresso is robust.  Most baristas make a good cappuccino; the lack of consistency is my one caveat.  Typically, about half the cafe is comprised of laptop users.  Fuel has three locations in Seattle.

PIONEER SQUARE
Caffe Umbria- Before it was Caffe Umbria, it was Torrefazione Italia.  The crowd is mostly the nine to fivers.  It’s hard to beat the location, on a cobblestoned terrace in the heart of Pioneer Square.  If you traipse across the way, you might catch the glassblowers at work in Glasshouse Studio.  Caffe Umbria’s backdrop is decidedly minimalist with pale yellow walls, mahogany stained tables and chairs and stainless steel accents.  The coffee is outstanding, very smooth and drinkable.  Coffees are served with a square of dark chocolate, the European way.   In addition, they offer Gelatiamo gelato and baked goods.  My husband drinks the Gusto Crema Blend at home, using his Bialetti stovetop espresso maker.  Caffe Umbria has one location in Seattle and one in Portland.

SOUTH LAKE UNION
Espresso Vivace Alley 24- Two winters ago, during Seattle’s record snowfall, my family got a bad case of cabin fever.  We decided to drive our Volvo to REI to pick up a camping stove, in case we lost power.  We bundled up and fortuitously parked right in front of this coffee mecca.  From espresso art mosaics to the pleasing shades of brown on the walls, floor and counters, there is the distinct feeling of being inside the perfect cappuccino, awash in a sea of milk, espresso and billowy white foam.  Vivace roasts their own beans resulting in an espresso that is sweet and smooth.  Baristas have mastered the perfect foam and crown it with artful espresso swirls, resulting in coffee that looks as amazing as it tastes.  Vivace has two stores and one sidewalk bar.

QUEEN ANNE, TOP OF THE HILL
Caffe Ladro- When I worked on Queen Anne, I often stopped here for coffee. The setting is cave-like with dark, textured walls and eclectic stained glass arches.  The coffee is full bodied and intense but balanced.  The laid back baristas are friendly and focused.  Baked goods are delicious, particularly the ginger cookies, pumpkin pie and quiches.  An expansive bulletin board takes the boredom out of waiting in line.  The cafe on Upper Queen Anne is the original Caffe Ladro.  Their website states that there are now thirteen locations!

Macrina Bakery- Crusty loaves of bread, mouthwatering pastries and an inviting staff greet you as you enter this charming neighborhood cafe. Tucked away on the northwest edge of upper Queen Anne, the place is always bustling.  Square tables are intimately spaced and hard to come by but worth the effort if you can secure one.  The setting is soothing with cool blue walls and ethereal light streaming in through floor to ceiling windows.  The espresso drinks, prepared by counter staff who double as baristas, are consistently good.  The roast is full bodied with a round finish and cappuccinos are classic affairs with a balanced foam to milk ratio.   Macrina has three locations to choose from.

the local bread list

Best all around bread
Essential Bakery’s Pain du George-  This bread is a slightly sour organic wheat loaf.  It is huge and holds up well for days.  We use it for toast, sandwiches, with dinner… even to make strata and stuffing.  Everyone who tries it loves it.  It is named after their head baker, George DePasquale.

Best baguette
Grand Central Bakery’s semolina baguette-  The semolina differs from their rustic baguette which is available at various Seattle grocery stores and is only available in their bakery locations.  It has a denser crumb and less air, like a true French baguette.  The semolina is a little more delicate than the rustic and a good enough reason to visit any of the local restaurants clever enough to serve it.  Le Pichet, Cafe Campagne and Bastille, to name a few.  It is the closest thing in Seattle to a real Parisian baguette, possibly even as good.

Best baguette, runner-up
Columbia City Bakery’s ficelle- It is a baguette of a different shape, sort of like a horse of a different color.  Their ficelle is chewier in texture with a paler exterior than a traditional baguette.  It has good flavor and is outstanding in part for its authenticity.  I have to admit, though, that I have never been to the bakery.  So many local restaurants and cafes serve bread from this bakery that I don’t have to.

Best dinner roll
Columbia City Bakery’s roasted potato dinner roll-  I recently learned that I don’t have to dine at Chez Shea to eat these rolls.  You can buy them at the bakery, in Columbia City.  They are ungodly delicious.  The potato gives them a moist, dense, earthiness.  The crust is paper thin, comparable to the skin on a baked potato but in bread form.  These killer rolls are almost a meal in and of themselves as they are roughly the size of a softball.

Best oat bread
Tall Grass Bakery’s honey oat bread- This bread is sublime- with its dark brown crust contrasting a pale oat interior.  The flavor is hard to describe.  It is slightly sweet and has a dominant oat flavor and moist texture.  There is nothing like it.  Tall Grass is located in Ballard and often has a stall at the Sunday Ballard Market.  Their bread is also sold at Madison Market.

Best potato bread
Macrina’s rustic potato loaf- several local bakeries make a potato loaf but this one is the cat’s pajama’s.  The bread is a bit salty with a rich potato flavor and snowy white crumb.  The crust is thick and golden and balances beautifully with the almost airy quality of the interior.  It is the perfect bread for BLT’s.

Best sandwich bread
Tall Grass Bakery’s honey wheat bread- This whole wheat bread is the perfect sandwich bread.  It is hearty, wholesome and tastes like homemade wheat bread with an artisanal twist.  It holds up well for several days.

Best Croissant
Le Panier- I have eaten many croissants in Paris and tried them occasionally in Seattle but they tend to disappoint.  Le Panier’s croissant is the exception to the rule and has the perfect balance of golden flaky exterior and buttery, pull-apart insides.  It is never too doughy or too crisp but is impossible to eat gracefully, and isn’t that the hallmark of any good croissant?

Best home style loaf
Blackbird Bakery’s oatmeal wheat bread- You have to go to Bainbridge Island for this bread but it’s worth the trip.  Whenever I have the chance to head to this quaint bakery, I order buttered toast with a cup of whichever homemade soup is available and I order a loaf to take home with me.  This is your mother’s bread.  Or maybe your grandmother’s.  At any rate, it tastes the way homemade bread was meant to.

good food in juneau

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Silverbow Bagels – I probably eat these bagels once a day when in Juneau.  This cozy shop serves up super tasty bagels and delectable homemade desserts.  Their sandwiches can be customized with a a myriad of fixings.  The hippy dippy bagel, my favorite, is both nutritious and delicious.  For your sweet tooth, try their Alaskan Spice cake and irresistibly yummy mint brownies.

Heritage Coffee Co. – Heritage coffee is to Juneau what Starbucks is to Seattle.  The difference is consistency but I let that slide for nostalgia’s sake and for lack of alternatives, not to mention the inherent charm of human err.  They used to have more of a sit down menu but the food offerings have dwindled so now I just go for my daily cappuccino.  

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Twisted Fish Company – This is the place to go for fish.  The service is outstanding, the setting light and bright with warm varnished wood throughout.  Food is fresh and well-prepared and they serve delicious homemade bread ‘knots’ with your meal.  Last summer, I ordered seared halibut with a huckleberry chutney.  It was sublime.  The wine list is just okay.  The real downside is that the restaurant is seasonal, open only from May – October.

The Hangar on the Wharf – Go for the halibut and chips and make sure to pay extra for tempura-style.  This restaurant is run by the owners of the Twisted Fish meaning you can expect a similar standard of quality and service.  The salads are fresh and the atmosphere is lively with a picturesque view of the Gastineau Channel.  Their beer selection is extensive with over 20 on tap.  Interestingly, you’ll find a bottle of malt vinegar on every table as an homage to the seasonal plethora of British patrons who work on cruise ships during summer months.  Apparently, the Brits like to dip their fries in the stuff.  

Paradise Cafe – This darling bakery, across from the wharf, has a retro cowgirl theme and the sweetest staff around.  They also have the best sweets around.  I buy their pastries even when I’m not hungry and then tuck them away to accommodate my late night sweet tooth.  I have yet to try their lunch fare but it all looks homey and satisfying. 

Seong’s Sushi Bar – When I was pregnant with my daughter, I craved the chicken soup from Seong’s.  Too bad I was in Seattle.  Chicken soup may sound like an odd thing to offer at a Sushi joint but it sells out every night.  The soup is loaded with Japanese-style noodles, fresh veggies, and chicken breast in a clear broth.  Their sushi is outstanding, too, with fresh fish shipped in daily.  The owners are gracious and accommodating and the clientele is mostly comprised of locals.

Alaskan Fudge Co. – Yum.  Only an iron will could resist walking into this shop as the scent of warm chocolate, butter and cream wafts out the door.  While you wait in line, you can watch as they make the fudge in big copper pots.  I recommend the penuche, glacier chip, and divinity.  I also recommend gifting this fudge as they can shrink wrap it for you and it will last up to two weeks.  Who wouldn’t love the gift of fudge from Alaska.  It beats getting a tee-shirt, which they sell in their adjacent gift shop. 

Rainbow Foods – We do most of our grocery shopping here when visiting Juneau.  They carry a good selection of organic foods and fresh produce and their small but tasteful selection of artisanal cheeses and cured meats is a bonus.  The prices are steep for some items, reasonable for others.  During they week, they offer a number of organic lunch specials and wholesome baked goods.  The berry scones are a favorite.

Fred Meyer – It’s not local but they have an impressive organic section and it is definitely the economical way to eat organic in Juneau.

favorite food spots in sitka

Sitka has come a long way since I left in 1993.  These are the places where you will most likely find me when I am back in my old stomping grounds. 

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 Highliner Coffee Company – I love this place because the coffee is good and because you consistently get service with a smile.  The setting is pleasant and clean with no frills.  A fishing vibe is reflected in framed photographs of boats covering the walls throughout.  You might even have the good fortune to stumble upon an impromptu jam session, as we once did.  My husband (center) even got in on the action.

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Ludvig’s Bistro – This itty bitty gem makes their own bread and and serves up outstanding cioppino, chock full of fresh fish.  Just about anything in the seafood category reigns supreme here.  The wine list is pretty great, too.  I love that they feature organic produce from Full Circle Farm, in Washington State.  The bistro’s warm walls and eclectic decor are inviting but not pretentious, much like the city in which it dwells.

Back Door – This pleasant cafe makes homemade breads and bagels, delicious sandwiches, soups and baked goods.  They are located on the back side of Old Harbor Books which conveniently merges my two great loves.  The downside is that their hours are sporadic and they only accept cash and checks.