a day at oxbow farm

 

A-l-l-i-g-a-t-o-r…. b-i-n-o-c-u-l-a-r-s…. C-a-r-n-a-t-i-o-n…., as in Carnation, Washington, our intended destination on a wet Saturday in October.  My husband drove intently, squinting through the rain soaked windshield while my daughter Annabelle and I  passed the time spelling words by seeking out letters on license plates and roadside signage.  Located a mere forty minutes east of Seattle, Carnation is home to more than a dozen local farms and we were headed to one of them. 

Our destination was Oxbow Farm’s 11th Annual Harvest Festival and we were eager to muddy our rain boots with a healthy dose of authentic farm culture.  Good food was a given: the organic farm provided plenty of roasted salmon and grilled vegetables, straight from the field; while two rows of tables adorned with brightly hued oilcloths were heavy under the weight of side dishes and desserts, presented potluck-style.  My own contribution was a twist on my standing pumpkin cookie recipe:  Instead of icing the tops, I sandwiched maple buttercream between two cookies in an autumnal take on whoopie pie. 

Nothing says ‘farm to table’ quite like platters heaped with roasted salmon filets, caramelized brussel sprouts, grilled squash, marinated carrots, pickled beets and local artisanal cheeses.  A large rectangular basket cradled just baked, dimpled foccacia while paper thin slices of rosy radishes and cool lemon cucumbers adorned an enormous bowl of mixed greens, straight from the garden.  Another massive bowl spilled over with luscious purple black concord grapes.  Every dish had been made from scratch or plucked from nearby fields in an impressive showing of late harvest bounty.  

With a wealth of delectable offerings to choose from, our plates were soon brimming with beautiful, delicious food, an edible still life in muted shades of green, orange, crimson and violet.  Just as we poised our forks for the first bite, someone called out, “Time for the pumpkin parade!” and in a testimony to her sorely lacking farm prowess, Annabelle opted to run through a mud slick with inevitable results.  The subsequent look of bewilderment was almost as amusing as her exceptionally muddy bum.  She quickly recovered and joined a group of children assembled near the pumpkin patch.  Many girls were dressed as fairies with rubber boots peeking out beneath the hems of gossamer gowns and glittering wings sprouting from sensible rain jackets.  Just in time, a kind young woman handed Annabelle a posy of wildflowers and tucked a brown eyed susan behind her ear. Then off the children marched, weaving through the pumpkin patch and on to a magical pumpkin fairy house.

Near the fairy house, a greased pole challenged thrill seekers to scale its lofty heights in pursuit of pats on the back and a chance at grabbing hold of envelopes fastened up top containing farm stand coupons.  Live music drifted out from a canvas tent where three toe tapping musicians performed a steady stream of lively bluegrass melodies.  Annabelle sagely bypassed apple bobbing from a deep tub of water teeming with the collective saliva of countless children before her.  We eluded pouring rain in the warmth of a greenhouse whose skeletal frame and diffused glow gave the distinct feeling of being cozily situated in the belly of a  beguiling whale.  Annabelle plopped down on the hay strewn floor where she found abundant supplies for fashioning a gourd adorned necklace and enchanting marigold crown.

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Bedecked in her harvest accoutrements, Annabelle led the way to the children’s living garden, a lush wonderland replete with a nonsensical winding tunnel and dizzying sorghum maze.  Hushed silence filled the nearby bean teepee where a handful of children contentedly shelled and munched on edible beans plucked from walls comprised of trailing vines.  A tractor engine rumbled in the distance and moments later, both tractor and hay wagon came into view.  Passengers disembarked and as the driver hopped down, we anxiously inquired, “Are we too late for a hay ride?”

“Nah,” he replied.  We’ll keep running as long as people keep coming.

Relieved, we clambered onto the truck bed, bracing ourselves for a bumpy ride as the tractor lurched forward, pulling the wagon along a makeshift dirt road forged between two fields.  Steady rain proved no match for the fervor of our guide, Oxbow farmer Adam McCurdy.  His love of the land was deeply apparent as he impassionedly detailed the workings of the farm, from glories to pitfalls.  Caught up in the beauty of the moment, Annabelle whispered longingly, “I want to live here."  Before heading home, we trudged through tangled vines and mucky muck to pick our first ever pumpkin patch pumpkins.  Jubilantly we emerged with three fat and jolly, mud-flecked specimens.

During the drive home, with rain drenched clothes and rosy cheeks, we cranked up the heat and relived memorable moments of our day at the farm.  My husband grew up surrounded by farmland in Northern Holland and relished in the opportunity to reconnect with his childhood and to share that connection with his daughter.  Annabelle was smitten with the children’s living garden and pleased as pie with her great orange pumpkin.  I came away with an empty dessert platter, a full belly and a profound respect for the farmers who grow our food. 

In recent years, our family has increasingly supported organic, local farming.  What began with small changes has grown into a greater sense of responsibility to both ourselves and our community at large.  The food tastes better, is better for you and benefits the local economy.  In addition, buying locally grown food benefits farmers and their families.  A day at the farm provided newfound understanding of the vital connection between the food on our plate and the farmers who grow it.


Special thanks to Katherine Anderson of Marigold and Mint for graciously inviting our family to this delightful event.  Katherine’s grandfather bought the land on which Oxbow farm is situated, back in the 50’s.  Her father now owns and operates the farm with the help of a talented and devoted farm crew.

melrose market

  

How is it that The New York Times discovered Melrose Market months before the majority of Seattleites did?  Surprisingly, much of Seattle has yet to venture through the doorway of this triangular oasis bordering downtown Seattle and Capitol Hill.  From the street, the building’s khaki brick facade conceals its inspired interior.  Step inside and be transported to someplace entirely foreign yet oddly familiar.  The gentle hum of activity and ethereal diffused light create a buffer, as though the outside world can not penetrate the tranquility within.

It is difficult not to draw comparisons to San Francisco’s ferry building, likely muse for this luminous, exposed beam beauty.  This scaled down version makes up for limited stature with a host of period details such as exposed brick and leaded glass windows paired seamlessly with European-style tiling and stained cement floors.  The thread of connectivity is undeniable yet Melrose Market’s obscure location attracts a hipper, more locally driven population as opposed to the throngs of tourists swarming the ferry building on any given day. 

Melrose Market came to fruition as a result of careful collaboration between two local developers, Liz Dunn and Scott Shapiro.  Their vision: create a platform where exceptional food, drink, style and music converge under one roof.  Each space is occupied by one of a kind purveyors with a local, independent bent.  The beauty of the market lies squarely within its limitations.  There is little room for growth save for a few vacant spaces; yet high ceilings lend to an open air vibe and the floor plan belies its tight quarters.  The brilliant architects behind this beautifully renovated space ought to win an award for their ingenuity.

Rain Shadow Meats is resident butcher with arguably the best and most diverse meat selection in the city.  Across the way, Homegrown serves up inventive sandwiches and salads highlighting local, organic ingredients and a commitment to sustainability shared by adjacent cheese shop, The Calf & Kid, where an impressive cheese case is dominated by Northwest cheese makers.  Bar Ferd’nand is half bar, half wine shop and the ideal pit stop for those awaiting a table at Sitka & Spruce, Matt Dillon’s stunning reincarnation of his Eastlake restaurant, occupying an airy, intimate space at the far end of the building.  Sandwiched between the bar and restaurant is Marigold and Mint, where a menagerie of beautiful odds and ends encircle one long table whose weathered surface remains hidden beneath pails and vases brimming with happy flowers in brilliant hues, mason jars sprouting  fragrant herbs, and rustic baskets filled with newly harvested onions, carrots and potatoes, bits of soil still clinging to their skins.

Independent music store Sonic Boom Records occupies one of two exterior spaces with knowledgeable staff and an impressive selection of new and used music.  Next door is Velouria, where conscience meets style with a spotlight on hip, wearable clothing and accessories for men and women by independent designers.  Located on the lower level is Still Liquor, night owl of the marketplace and purported servers of strong, inventive libations.

Head to Melrose Market for tonight’s brisket and you may find yourself lugging home a canvas tote brimming with garden fresh vegetables, cheery flowers, a crusty loaf of bread, an unctuous wedge of fromage, a luscious bottle of red, a laid back dinner soundtrack and a smart new ensemble to spruce up your wardrobe. 

Note to self : Next time, be sure to bring along an extra tote.

Sitka and Spruce
 

Sitka and Spruce* has been around the block in their four years on the Seattle restaurant scene; and not just figuratively speaking.  Earlier this year, the Eastlake restaurant closed its doors only to put down new roots inside Capitol Hill’s Johnnie-come-lately, Melrose Market.  In its previous location, devotees looked past the run-down storefront and paid attention to the food.  Chef and owner, Matt Dillon spins local ingredients into inspired dishes the way Rumpelstiltskin spins straw into gold.  And he does so with conviction, highlighting seasonal local foods and routinely incorporating the exceptional meats, cheeses and produce found just outside their doorstep.

When I first walked through the doors of Melrose Market, I found myself inexplicably drawn to the rear of the building where Sitka and Spruce inhabits a freestanding structure within the market.  The reincarnated space does not sparkle with shiny newness.  It feels like an old friend, weathered and familiar.  Soft light streams through rows of leaded windowpanes and exposed brick is whitewashed, adding cheery brightness.  An open kitchen provides warmth and invites denizens to inactively participate in an orchestrated dance of activity, best observed from the adjacent communal table.  Servers and kitchen staff streak past leaving behind flashes of color while diners meet one another’s gazes sharing the secret knowledge that this is where it’s at. 

Over the course of three visits, I have twice been for lunch and once for a sleepy weekend brunch.  At the noon hour, I sampled delicate wedges of golden watermelon layered with briny sheep’s milk feta and salty paper thin slices of prosciutto scattered with crunchy red chili flakes.  I sunk my teeth into pert, creamy local camembert perched atop a pool of fragrant wildflower honey and savored tender roasted broccoli and escarole bathed in silky anchovy butter.  Smooth tangy chickpea puree felt exotic with the addition of spicy harissa beneath a nest of cool sweet carrot salad.  Whole smoked sardines adorned with creme fraiche zig zags  balanced atop round yellow potatoes like dual silver skateboards poised to race across the table at a moment’s notice. 

Weekend brunch brought soothing house made yogurt with juicy ripe peaches and ambrosial honey.  Tender buttermilk biscuits were slathered with sultry late-summer blackberry jam and the clean flavor of creme fraiche.  On the savoury side, ful mesdames were fava beans simmered with spices and topped with a delicately poached egg, toasted pistachios and fragrant fresh dill.

For Sitka and Spruce, ‘reinvention was the mother of necessity’.  In their new space, seasoned customers and newfound admirers convene under one roof with easy familiarity.  Diners are muses in a Degas painting where each meal is captured in fluid brushstrokes of color and light.  Only Dillon wields a spatula, not a paintbrush, and his masterpieces are decidedly edible.

*Although its name denotes my birthplace, it is more a case of inventive branding than homage to tree or tiny Alaskan island.  

 

 

 

marigold and mint

Marigold and Mint owner, Katherine Anderson understands loveliness.  An enticing smattering of sweet nothings such as handmade soaps, baubles, trinkets, richly colored ribbons and French chocolates, are visible proof.  Her artful selection of handmade treasures serve as the backdrop for a weathered farmhouse table laden with bowls, baskets, pails, vases and jars, all spilling forth with vibrant flowers and organic fresh produce.
 

Back in the 50’s Katherine’s grandfather bought 30 acres on the Snoqualmie River, which her dad now owns and operates as Oxbow Farm.  Katherine utilizes a portion of the acreage for growing the flowers which briefly make their way into her shop before being plucked up by devoted customers.  Trained as a landscape architect, Katherine welcomed the opportunity to showcase her creativity in a more urban setting.  The shop acts as her canvas, an evolving still life where the edible and fanciful converge in a daily dance of color and texture. 

 

 

bar ferd’nand

 

Sidle up to the counter for a glass of wine at Bar Ferd’nand and you have no doubt secured the best perch for people watching in Melrose Market.  Find out who was lucky enough to score a coveted table at nearby Sitka & Spruce, breath in the fragrance of freshly cut flowers at neighboring Marigold and Mint or keep a running tally of the pristine cuts of meat exchanging hands across the way at Rain Shadow Meats.  

Matt Dillon sagely partnered with sommelier Marc Papineau and wine aficionado Jared Baily in creating this this ‘rustic meets utilitarian’ space in the heart of Melrose Market.  Dillon cleverly positioned the bar as a pit stop on the trail to Sitka & Spruce.  Waiting for that table to open up?  Why not spend the wait squarely positioned just outside the the restaurant with a drink in one hand and a menu of Spanish-style small plates to tide you over.  Bar Ferd’nand is no less appealing on its own, attracting the well-heeled and hipsters alike.  Bonus:  The adjacent wine shop offers a solid selection of great wines at reasonable prices.   

the calf & kid {artisan cheese shop}

The Calf & Kid Artisan Cheese Shop makes the most of their pint sized cheese case with an impressive selection that will no doubt satisfy the finicky as well as the adventurous palate.  Northwest varieties abound with a handful of European options thrown in for good measure.  Before opening her cheese shop, Sherry LaVigne, made her way across Washington State, getting to know the cheese makers she would represent and learning their trade.  Sherry and her staff are warm and knowledgeable and more than willing to offer samples when their playful descriptions fail to capture your imagination.  Not to be missed:  a goody basket filled with wee hunks of cheese, ideal for trying  something new with minimal commitment.  

Homegrown

Just inside the main entrance of Melrose Market, Homegrown planted the second installment of their successful, sustainable sandwich shop.  A vast menu highlights local, organic ingredients and inventive sandwiches such as ‘crab cake with bacon + avocado’, ‘meatloaf BLT’ and ‘Bluffernutter’, a peanut butter and bacon sandwich with marshmallow fluff.   Housemade chips are crispy salty goodness.  Several salads, soups and seasonal specials round out the lunch fare.  Around noon, the line snaking out the door speaks for itself.  Mornings are quieter affairs with choices narrowed down to a few breakfast sandwiches or oatmeal with nuts and fruit.  Stumptown coffee is available all day.  A late night weekend menu features the sort of fried food you crave after a night of drinking, only organic.    Indoor seating is limited but additional outdoor seating is a bonus during warmer months. 

Homegrown refers to their sustainable philosophy as ‘sandwich environmentalism.’  Also known as good food you can feel good about eating.

rainshadow meats

One word: Bacon.  After going weak in the knees over a roasted beet salad with crispy lardon (rectangular chunks of cured pork belly or bacon) from Grand Central Bakery, I beseeched the kitchen staff to reveal their source.  They suggested heading to Rain Shadow Meats, located inside Capitol Hill’s newest neighbor, Melrose Market.  This was news to me.  Six months, several glowing recommendations and one New York Times article later, the butcher has arrived. 

Owner Russell Flint opened up shop with over a decade of butchery experience under his belt.   He specializes in whole animal butchery which explains the large sides of meat, and occasional pig brazenly showcased in two walk-in coolers with peek-a-boo windows.  With his additional role as sous chef at Boat Street Cafe, Flint possesses the kitchen smarts to impart recipes along with the meat he sells.   His affable manner and profound passion for the craft hearken back to a time when butchers knew their customers by name and weren’t afraid to get a little sinew under their fingernails.

 
Side-by-side cases reveal a mouth watering array of good looking local meat.  Tiny sausage patties, called crepinettes, are daintily wrapped in lacy caul fat, while gargantuan top sirloin steaks from Walla Walla, WA, entice with their crimson hue, a common characteristic of grass fed beef.  Whole rabbit, duck and squab are par for the course.  And don’t forget their house made bacon, used to make those irresistible lardon.  If instant gratification is in order, choose from a small but thoughtful selection of prosciutto, salami, lardo and pate.  Hungry?  A ceramic bowl sits atop the meat case like a fixture, brimming with soft, glossy pretzels from Columbia City Bakery.   

Go for the meat.  It’s reason enough.  But stay for the friendly service, warm atmosphere and commitment to local farming.  And the bacon.

Velouria

Octopi are the new owls.  Or so it seems at this local boutique situated front and center in Melrose Market, where the octopus spreads its tentacles across men’s graphic tees and whimsical necklaces with aquatic aplomb.    Trends come and go but one thing is certain:  Velouria is the place to shop for fabulous one-of-a kind clothing and accessories with a conscience.  Everything in the boutique is made primarily by local, independent designers and never mass produced. 

A dreamy, light-filled interior serves as the backdrop for avant garde fashions and vintage-inspired jewelry.  Art deco lighting and fanciful chandeliers round out the minimalist aesthetic.  Cheery robin’s egg blue accents are found throughout the store, brightening up an otherwise neutral palette. 

Predominantly a women’s clothing store, Velouria caters to the male population with a limited but discerning collection of men’s clothing.  Overall, the selection is lovely, staff are knowledgeable and prices are reasonable.  Here’s to eliminating the middle man in exchange for a fab new dress. 

Sonic Boom Records

Service with a smile is hard to come by at most independent local record stores.  More often than not, these visits are punctuated by the glowering stares of surly clerks hell bent on revealing how tragically unhip the rest of us are.  Why then, was a grin plastered on the face of the guy situated behind the counter at Sonic Boom Records?  More than likely, it’s because he works at the record store Rolling Stone recently rated as one of the top 25 in the United States.

Sonic Boom’s Capitol Hill location, conveniently situated in Melrose Market,  rocks a spacious, well-lit interior, high ceilings and rows of racks neatly crammed with a diplomatic mix of obscure and mainstream music.  Vinyl collectors will appreciate the store’s solid record selection and used c.d.’s abound to tempt even the most frugal budget. 

By supporting local record stores like Sonic Boom, the tangible music experience lives on.  And the service is undoubtedly friendly.  Take note aloof hipster music clerks:  Nice is the new black.

Still

Many a thirsty soul has ventured through the doors of Still Liquor without setting foot inside the bustling Melrose Market shops above.  Hidden away in a den-like space on the market’s lower level, Still’s blink and you’ll miss it entrance fronts the back side of the market building.  

Remember the Seinfeld episode where Jerry finds his date attractive under low lighting but can’t stand to see her in broad daylight?  He should have taken her to Still.  The dimly lit interior relies heavily on candlelight once the sun goes down.

Still’s austere backdrop is softened by an inviting honey-stained bar and a few mismatched vintagey velvet chairs lending a saloon-like vibe to the place.  The crowd here is diverse; but unanimous in their approval of the friendly, skilled bartenders and strong, inventive drinks with names like Minor Mule, Bitter Swede and Dragon’s toe.  Muddled cucumber is the trend of the moment, described as ‘unexpected’ and ‘refreshing’.

Head to Still for happy hour when drinks are cheap and filtered sunlight streams in from the western sky, bathing the space and its inhabitants in a diffused glow. 

The downside:  they bar does not serve food.  The upside:  candlelight is infinitely flattering.

volunteer park cafe & marketplace

 
Goodness knows no boundaries at this loverly cafe, nestled in the Capitol Hill neighborhood of Seattle.  The increasingly popular spot is frequented by nearby residents and far flung devotees, alike.

Owner and chef, Ericka Burke's genius is in her consummate knowledge of every facet of a successful dining establishment. Seasonal menus feature inspired comfort food with a conscience. The simple fare is never contrived, often local and organic and always delicious.  Ericka has mastered the art of deliberate imperfection.  The informal atmosphere is warm and convivial; heavy on charm, light on pretense.  Like a well worn book you read again and again.  Familiarity is the innate charm here.
 
Share a corner table with a date, bring your grandmother for a weekday lunch, gather a handful of friends for a birthday dinner or enjoy a sleepy Sunday brunch with your spouse and offspring.  However you assemble, be sure to bring your appetite.

Resident baking maven, Heather Earnhardt, turns out irresistible scones, cookies, muffins and cakes with a deft hand. She daily transforms butter, sugar and flour into otherworldly rustic baked goods- always gorgeous but never too pretty to eat.  Not to miss are the figgy maple scones, all flaky with buttery goodness, studded with dried fig gems and smothered in a maple glaze.  The Charlie Brown cookies are another favorite- rich chewy chocolate cookies with a generous smattering of peanut butter chips throughout.

For breakfast, try the bacon and egg panini with two poached eggs, crispy bacon, melted gruyere and thick slices of tomato on brioche bread.  For lunch, the pulled pork sandwich boasts a generous helping of slow-roasted barbecued pork topped tangy purple cabbage slaw and sandwiched between a toasted sesame bun.  Come dinner, don't miss the beef brisket, a handsome portion of salty, caramelized meat so tender that it falls apart when you as much as look at it.  The brisket is served over creamy polenta with a side of braised greens.  Pizzas and salads are sure bets.  Vegetarian options abound. 

Thoughtfully selected wines are affordable and ever-changing, often venturing off the beaten path.  In flawless succession, skilled baristas pull perfect shots of Stumptown espresso bathed in steamed milk and topped with rich, creamy foam.

Ms. Burke treats her staff with care and it shows.  With their impressive tenure, the knowledgeable amiable wait staff lend to the familial vibe of the place.  Don’t feel slighted when regulars receive extra attention.  They are regulars, after all.  Drop by more often and it's likely you'll be adopted into the fold.

Check their website for information on special events and wine dinners.  Coming soon:  the backyard terrace all gussied up for al fresco dining, all summer long...

best seattle coffee by neighborhood

BALLARD
Cafe Fiore- On several occasions, I noticed the back side of Cafe Fiore while perusing the Sunday Ballard Market.  When I at last made my way around the block and stepped inside, I stood in awe.  Upon entering, I was embraced by a warm glow emanating from the backlit amber menu, exposed brick and honey stained wood floors.  The rectangular layout felt spacious due to well- appointed tables and plenty of space between the counter and seating.  The vibe was both modern and rustic with vintage walnut counters contrasting burnt orange walls.  The lighting, a juxtaposition of the clean lined hurricane lamps overhanging the coffee bar and the medieval-like wrought iron fixtures throughout.  If the ambience isn’t enough to draw you in, go for the coffee.  Seattle Magazine rated them ‘Best Independent Coffee Shop’.  Their organic beans deliver an espresso with full flavor and a smooth finish.   A bonus for parents is the tots’ corner in the back.  Cafe Fiore has three locations.

CAPITAL HILL, 15TH AVENUE E.
Victrola Coffee & Art- I happened upon this coffee shop when my daughter was enrolled in a nearby dance class.  It has all the trappings of a Capital Hill coffee house: diverse patrons, pierced and tattooed baristas, a standing piano and rotating artwork on the walls.  The common thread amongst  customers is a  mutual desire for really great coffee and a disdain for the conglomerate coffee shop (disguised as an independent), down the block.  My daughter’s class was held in the late afternoon, a time of day when I tend to avoid caffeine.  I was thrilled to discover virtually no difference between their regular and decaffeinated espresso.  Their coffee is both robust and smooth, with a complex flavor.  Victrola roasts their own beans at their Pike Street roastery and brews the best I’ve had in Seattle.  It reminds me of my favorite San Francisco coffee, Blue Bottle Coffee Co.  Victrola has three locations.

NORTH CAPITAL HILL
Volunteer Park Cafe- With its high ceilings, light-filled interior, vintagey tables and cozy, bench lined walls, Volunteer Park Cafe feels like an extension of your living room.  Although more of a restaurant than a coffee shop, VPC readily support the caffeine habits of their loyal weekday coffee crowd.  Weekends are brunch focused and busy, often with lines out the door.  They serve Stumptown Coffee and baristas here know their stuff.  Cappuccinos have more milk than foam but are delicious.  The hardest part is walking out with just coffee.  While waiting in line, you pass a tantalizing array of quiches, cookies, cakes and scones.  I must stop now or this will turn into a restaurant review (coming soon…).

DOWNTOWN
DeLaurenti- Whenever I shop in the Pike Place Market, I stop for coffee at the cafe in DeLaurenti.  They serve smooth and supple Caffe Umbria coffee and their well-trained baristas are among the best in the city.  Their cappuccinos have the perfect balance of espresso, milk and foam.  Lunch fare is simple and delicious but the line often snakes out the door.  The staff is friendly and efficient and did I mention how much I love their coffee?

FREMONT
Peet’s Coffee and Tea- Although I tend to advocate local businesses, I love San Francisco enough to consider it my home away from home.  Peet’s got their start in Berkeley, in the 60’s.  The founder was from Holland, like my husband.  I first tried this coffee while visiting the Ferry Building, in San Francisco.  As far as big companies go, this one has managed to remain true to their roots and to operate like a small business.  The staff are friendly and efficient and the espresso is flavorful and consistently good.  In summer months, I love their iced cappuccino, a refreshing combination of espresso, foam, milk and ice, unique to Peet’s.  There are four Seattle locations and one in nearby Redmond.

MADISON VALLEY
Essential Baking Company- Lunch and breakfast menus are extensive at this bustling cafe but they also cater to a loyal coffee crowd.  The coffee has a burnt caramel quality, like toasted marshmallows.  The cappuccino, with its ring of golden brown espresso circling perfect white foam, even looks like a toasted marshmallow.  It makes me happy.  The Wallingford location was their bread baking facility until they recently moved the baking off-site.  It is situated in an old brick building that has operated as a bakery since the 1920’s.  There is a third cafe in Georgetown. 

MONTLAKE
Fuel- This neighborhood coffee shop has an underlying road trip theme to tie in with their moniker.  Located in the old Montlake Library, the decor is a mix of contemporary tables and chairs and original wood floors and built-ins.  The staff are generally friendly and the espresso is robust.  Most baristas make a good cappuccino; the lack of consistency is my one caveat.  Typically, about half the cafe is comprised of laptop users.  Fuel has three locations in Seattle.

PIONEER SQUARE
Caffe Umbria- Before it was Caffe Umbria, it was Torrefazione Italia.  The crowd is mostly the nine to fivers.  It’s hard to beat the location, on a cobblestoned terrace in the heart of Pioneer Square.  If you traipse across the way, you might catch the glassblowers at work in Glasshouse Studio.  Caffe Umbria’s backdrop is decidedly minimalist with pale yellow walls, mahogany stained tables and chairs and stainless steel accents.  The coffee is outstanding, very smooth and drinkable.  Coffees are served with a square of dark chocolate, the European way.   In addition, they offer Gelatiamo gelato and baked goods.  My husband drinks the Gusto Crema Blend at home, using his Bialetti stovetop espresso maker.  Caffe Umbria has one location in Seattle and one in Portland.

SOUTH LAKE UNION
Espresso Vivace Alley 24- Two winters ago, during Seattle’s record snowfall, my family got a bad case of cabin fever.  We decided to drive our Volvo to REI to pick up a camping stove, in case we lost power.  We bundled up and fortuitously parked right in front of this coffee mecca.  From espresso art mosaics to the pleasing shades of brown on the walls, floor and counters, there is the distinct feeling of being inside the perfect cappuccino, awash in a sea of milk, espresso and billowy white foam.  Vivace roasts their own beans resulting in an espresso that is sweet and smooth.  Baristas have mastered the perfect foam and crown it with artful espresso swirls, resulting in coffee that looks as amazing as it tastes.  Vivace has two stores and one sidewalk bar.

QUEEN ANNE, TOP OF THE HILL
Caffe Ladro- When I worked on Queen Anne, I often stopped here for coffee. The setting is cave-like with dark, textured walls and eclectic stained glass arches.  The coffee is full bodied and intense but balanced.  The laid back baristas are friendly and focused.  Baked goods are delicious, particularly the ginger cookies, pumpkin pie and quiches.  An expansive bulletin board takes the boredom out of waiting in line.  The cafe on Upper Queen Anne is the original Caffe Ladro.  Their website states that there are now thirteen locations!

Macrina Bakery- Crusty loaves of bread, mouthwatering pastries and an inviting staff greet you as you enter this charming neighborhood cafe. Tucked away on the northwest edge of upper Queen Anne, the place is always bustling.  Square tables are intimately spaced and hard to come by but worth the effort if you can secure one.  The setting is soothing with cool blue walls and ethereal light streaming in through floor to ceiling windows.  The espresso drinks, prepared by counter staff who double as baristas, are consistently good.  The roast is full bodied with a round finish and cappuccinos are classic affairs with a balanced foam to milk ratio.   Macrina has three locations to choose from.

the local bread list

Best all around bread
Essential Bakery’s Pain du George-  This bread is a slightly sour organic wheat loaf.  It is huge and holds up well for days.  We use it for toast, sandwiches, with dinner… even to make strata and stuffing.  Everyone who tries it loves it.  It is named after their head baker, George DePasquale.

Best baguette
Grand Central Bakery’s semolina baguette-  The semolina differs from their rustic baguette which is available at various Seattle grocery stores and is only available in their bakery locations.  It has a denser crumb and less air, like a true French baguette.  The semolina is a little more delicate than the rustic and a good enough reason to visit any of the local restaurants clever enough to serve it.  Le Pichet, Cafe Campagne and Bastille, to name a few.  It is the closest thing in Seattle to a real Parisian baguette, possibly even as good.

Best baguette, runner-up
Columbia City Bakery’s ficelle- It is a baguette of a different shape, sort of like a horse of a different color.  Their ficelle is chewier in texture with a paler exterior than a traditional baguette.  It has good flavor and is outstanding in part for its authenticity.  I have to admit, though, that I have never been to the bakery.  So many local restaurants and cafes serve bread from this bakery that I don’t have to.

Best dinner roll
Columbia City Bakery’s roasted potato dinner roll-  I recently learned that I don’t have to dine at Chez Shea to eat these rolls.  You can buy them at the bakery, in Columbia City.  They are ungodly delicious.  The potato gives them a moist, dense, earthiness.  The crust is paper thin, comparable to the skin on a baked potato but in bread form.  These killer rolls are almost a meal in and of themselves as they are roughly the size of a softball.

Best oat bread
Tall Grass Bakery’s honey oat bread- This bread is sublime- with its dark brown crust contrasting a pale oat interior.  The flavor is hard to describe.  It is slightly sweet and has a dominant oat flavor and moist texture.  There is nothing like it.  Tall Grass is located in Ballard and often has a stall at the Sunday Ballard Market.  Their bread is also sold at Madison Market.

Best potato bread
Macrina’s rustic potato loaf- several local bakeries make a potato loaf but this one is the cat’s pajama’s.  The bread is a bit salty with a rich potato flavor and snowy white crumb.  The crust is thick and golden and balances beautifully with the almost airy quality of the interior.  It is the perfect bread for BLT’s.

Best sandwich bread
Tall Grass Bakery’s honey wheat bread- This whole wheat bread is the perfect sandwich bread.  It is hearty, wholesome and tastes like homemade wheat bread with an artisanal twist.  It holds up well for several days.

Best Croissant
Le Panier- I have eaten many croissants in Paris and tried them occasionally in Seattle but they tend to disappoint.  Le Panier’s croissant is the exception to the rule and has the perfect balance of golden flaky exterior and buttery, pull-apart insides.  It is never too doughy or too crisp but is impossible to eat gracefully, and isn’t that the hallmark of any good croissant?

Best home style loaf
Blackbird Bakery’s oatmeal wheat bread- You have to go to Bainbridge Island for this bread but it’s worth the trip.  Whenever I have the chance to head to this quaint bakery, I order buttered toast with a cup of whichever homemade soup is available and I order a loaf to take home with me.  This is your mother’s bread.  Or maybe your grandmother’s.  At any rate, it tastes the way homemade bread was meant to.

good food in juneau

  
Silverbow Bagels – I probably eat these bagels once a day when in Juneau.  This cozy shop serves up super tasty bagels and delectable homemade desserts.  Their sandwiches can be customized with a a myriad of fixings.  The hippy dippy bagel, my favorite, is both nutritious and delicious.  For your sweet tooth, try their Alaskan Spice cake and irresistibly yummy mint brownies.

Heritage Coffee Co. – Heritage coffee is to Juneau what Starbucks is to Seattle.  The difference is consistency but I let that slide for nostalgia’s sake and for lack of alternatives, not to mention the inherent charm of human err.  They used to have more of a sit down menu but the food offerings have dwindled so now I just go for my daily cappuccino.  

   
Twisted Fish Company – This is the place to go for fish.  The service is outstanding, the setting light and bright with warm varnished wood throughout.  Food is fresh and well-prepared and they serve delicious homemade bread ‘knots’ with your meal.  Last summer, I ordered seared halibut with a huckleberry chutney.  It was sublime.  The wine list is just okay.  The real downside is that the restaurant is seasonal, open only from May – October.

The Hangar on the Wharf – Go for the halibut and chips and make sure to pay extra for tempura-style.  This restaurant is run by the owners of the Twisted Fish meaning you can expect a similar standard of quality and service.  The salads are fresh and the atmosphere is lively with a picturesque view of the Gastineau Channel.  Their beer selection is extensive with over 20 on tap.  Interestingly, you’ll find a bottle of malt vinegar on every table as an homage to the seasonal plethora of British patrons who work on cruise ships during summer months.  Apparently, the Brits like to dip their fries in the stuff.  

Paradise Cafe – This darling bakery, across from the wharf, has a retro cowgirl theme and the sweetest staff around.  They also have the best sweets around.  I buy their pastries even when I’m not hungry and then tuck them away to accommodate my late night sweet tooth.  I have yet to try their lunch fare but it all looks homey and satisfying. 

Seong’s Sushi Bar – When I was pregnant with my daughter, I craved the chicken soup from Seong’s.  Too bad I was in Seattle.  Chicken soup may sound like an odd thing to offer at a Sushi joint but it sells out every night.  The soup is loaded with Japanese-style noodles, fresh veggies, and chicken breast in a clear broth.  Their sushi is outstanding, too, with fresh fish shipped in daily.  The owners are gracious and accommodating and the clientele is mostly comprised of locals.

Alaskan Fudge Co. – Yum.  Only an iron will could resist walking into this shop as the scent of warm chocolate, butter and cream wafts out the door.  While you wait in line, you can watch as they make the fudge in big copper pots.  I recommend the penuche, glacier chip, and divinity.  I also recommend gifting this fudge as they can shrink wrap it for you and it will last up to two weeks.  Who wouldn’t love the gift of fudge from Alaska.  It beats getting a tee-shirt, which they sell in their adjacent gift shop. 

Rainbow Foods – We do most of our grocery shopping here when visiting Juneau.  They carry a good selection of organic foods and fresh produce and their small but tasteful selection of artisanal cheeses and cured meats is a bonus.  The prices are steep for some items, reasonable for others.  During they week, they offer a number of organic lunch specials and wholesome baked goods.  The berry scones are a favorite.

Fred Meyer – It’s not local but they have an impressive organic section and it is definitely the economical way to eat organic in Juneau.

favorite food spots in sitka

Sitka has come a long way since I left in 1993.  These are the places where you will most likely find me when I am back in my old stomping grounds. 

 Highliner Coffee Company – I love this place because the coffee is good and because you consistently get service with a smile.  The setting is pleasant and clean with no frills.  A fishing vibe is reflected in framed photographs of boats covering the walls throughout.  You might even have the good fortune to stumble upon an impromptu jam session, as we once did.  My husband (center) even got in on the action.

  
Ludvig’s Bistro – This itty bitty gem makes their own bread and and serves up outstanding cioppino, chock full of fresh fish.  Just about anything in the seafood category reigns supreme here.  The wine list is pretty great, too.  I love that they feature organic produce from Full Circle Farm, in Washington State.  The bistro’s warm walls and eclectic decor are inviting but not pretentious, much like the city in which it dwells.

Back Door – This pleasant cafe makes homemade breads and bagels, delicious sandwiches, soups and baked goods.  They are located on the back side of Old Harbor Books which conveniently merges my two great loves.  The downside is that their hours are sporadic and they only accept cash and checks.